Rolling Copper Pipe Clothes Rack
I was running out of space for all my clothes (yikes!) a few months ago and needed something cute and functional to hang clothes on outside of a closet. I took to Pinterest and found something I thought I'd never be able to make! So I called my fiance Collin. Once we made it, I LOVED IT! Huge success and super functional. I posted a picture of it a few months go and had multiple people asking me how we made it. So, I thought I'd share our plans with you all so that if you want, you can make one too!
Below is an inspiration picture I found on Pinterest.
I showed my sweet fiancé what I wanted to make and he happily accepted the job. So glad that Collin is handy as I am sure I will have many projects for him in the future!
Here's what you will need:
-5ft x 1 1/2ft x 1in piece of wood (measurements are not exact as Collin and I used recycled 1900's barn oak)
- 1- 1in - 10ft piece of copper pipe
- 1 - 1in - 5ft piece of copper pipe
- 2 - copper elbows 90 degrees - 1in
-2 - 1in Copper Threaded Adapter Fitting
- 2 - galvanized floor flanges
- 1 - can of copper spray paint
- 4 - castors
- pipe cutter
-1" tube cleaning brush
-1' fitting brush
-8 screws for floor flanges
-16 screws for castors
This isn't exactly in the order I started in, but if I could do it over again I would probably start in this order. :)
1. Stain Wood
Depending on what kind of wood you have for this project, old, new, borrowed, blue ;) - I would recommend sanding down your wood if needed and staining it a color of your choice. This way you can be letting the stain dry while you move on to other projects. Later, you can give it a nice clear coating when the stain dries.
2. Spraypaint Galvanized Floor Flanges Copper.
They do not currently make copper floor flanges that I know off, so we had to improvise, the good news? You can't even tell the difference! The copper spray paint looked great. Leave out to dry and do a second coat when the first coat dries.
3. Cut your Pipe
If you bought 1 - 10ft copper pipe, then your next step would be to measure the halfway point of your pipe and cut into two 5 ft pieces.
Then, you will need to cut 1 foot off of one of the three 5 foot pieces you will now have. This will get you 2 5ft uprights and 1 4ft crossbar for your frame.
I found it helpful to layout all of my pieces like a puzzle. Then start where you feel comfortable and be safe!
This is where that husband, fiance, boyfriend, dad, pretty much any male figure that even thinks he is handy comes into play. I attached a link to a video on how to solder pipe if you feel you need assistance. >>>>> Soldering for dummies 101 <<<<<
Clean all insides and outsides of pipe fittings. Use your tube cleaning brush and fitting brush for this.
Be sure to brush on flux solution to the end of the pipe where you will attach your two pieces before soldering.
We soldered the elbows onto the 4ft piece that serves at the top crossbar first. When soldering the elbows, make sure that you measure correcly and that you are soldering the elbows at matching angles. This is important so that your final piece will stand at the correct angles on each side. Then we solered the threaded adapters to the bottom end of the 5 ft pieces that will serve at the uprights.
The last step is to solder the 5ft uprights to the elbows attached to the 4ft crossbar.
5. Attach Your Upright Copper Pipes to the Floor Flanges
This should be as easy as screwing in a lightbulb. :) Since the adapter fittings are threaded and so are the floor flanges, all you have to do is screw on the floor flanges to the adapter fittings.
6. Attaching Castors to Wood
If you want this baby to fly you need a good set of wheels! Turn the wood over on what will be the bottom piece and measure out where you'd like to put the wheels. The further to the outside corners of the wood piece the better balance you'll have. Drill screws into the castor holes and attach to wood.
7. Attach Copper Form to Wood Piece
You are almost done! Collin and I did this by laying the wood piece face up, and measureing out and marking where we would attached the floor flanges to the wood piece. It's important to measure and mark so that you get an level and even end result. Once we measured and placed where we liked, Collin drilled in 4 screws through each floor flange hole. DONE!
Of course we ran into plenty of snags and challenges along the way, but this can be done in 1 day people! If you decide you want to venture this project and have questions let me know, I am happy to help! Good Luck!
Stephanie Grace Harvey